Tomatoes and Blossom-End Rot: Is Lack of Calcium the Culprit?

 

Photo from:

https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/blossom_end_rot_tip_sheet#:~:text=Blossom%2Dend%20rot%20is%20caused,the%20tissue%20of%20the%20tomato.&text=Since%20calcium%20is%20only%20moved,affected%20by%20a%20calcium%20deficiency.

I am writing this to correct a mistake I made on this blog years go...and in my garden for decades.  For years, I have read than blossom-end rot on tomatoes is due to a lack of calcium.  You know blossom-end rot (see photo above). The fruit rots from the blossom up and is ruined. Each year, I added crushed eggshells, calcium carbonate, even a calcium-based antacid to my tomato planting holes to prevent it. But, you know what?  Calcium does play a role, but most soils have enough calcium to support tomatoes. It is inconsistent watering that creates problems for the transfer of calcium into the tomato plant.  So all those calcium supplements were useless to stop blossom-end rot, though eggshells certainly don't hurt anything. Make sure your watering is consistent.  And, don't water after a heavy rain. Tomatoes are not good at regulating water flow, and too much water will cause ripening fruit to crack!

I STAND CORRECTED.

Reference:

https://mgnv.org/2018/07/16/garden-myth-busters-eggshells-blossom-end-rot/

Something's Rotten...

See the sad, little tomato above?  This little guy has blossom-end rot (let's call it BER).  If you've had it (and you likely have) you know that this tomato will never properly ripen, nor will it be edible. Every year, I plant a blossom-end rot resistant variety (Parks Whopper Improved).  When I plant, I put the tomatoes deep into the soil or trench them, and place a calcium source (half a 1000 mg. calcium supplement, a calcium-based antacid, or finely-ground eggshells) in the hole with the plant. I thought that was it, that the plants were now protected from this problem, after all, BER is caused by a calcium deficiency.  That's true, but all the calcium in the world won't prevent BER if you have inadequate, irregular watering.  Too little water interferes with the plants ability to transport calcium into the tissues of the plant (and, as you may know, an over-abundance of water can cause fruit to split).  So this is a two-tiered problem, caused by calcium deficiency and inadequate watering.  (Having a resistant variety is good, too, as is a 4-year crop rotation).  By the way, peppers (especially bell) can also suffer from BER.
I will write more one day about the other reason I grow Whopper Improved...and other highly-disease resistant plants.