Self-Watering Planters

Last week I wrote about those tree-watering bags and some concerns I have with them, including root rot. Today I want to discuss some concerns I have about "self-watering" planter, and using saucers under your outdoor planters. You have probably seen these "all-in-one," "self-watering" or "water reservoir" pot systems for your outdoor potted plants.  Planters dry out quickly and these products are supposed to be labor saving and supply a steady amount of water to the potted plant. They do this, but there is a real problem with these products:  they often keep the soil too moist, inviting fungal disease, especially root rot.  Root rot will either kill or weaken the plant.  Have you ever had a potted plant up and die, only to find weak, rotted or few roots in the pot when you tipped it out? This is probably root rot.

Plastic saucers under plants pots, especially deep ones, can do the same.  Many people use saucers to protect their decks, but they often hold too much water near the root zone of the plant, with bad results.

There are a few conditions I might use these types of pots: for hanging plants, which are subject to greater air-drying than pots on the ground, and window boxes (ditto).  But these pots are often pricey.  I would rather mulch my pots, make sure I was using a good quality potting mix and water often in hot weather.

Happy gardening!

Potted Pepper Success

After lack of success with peppers planted in the ground, I began to pot then up and have had success. A few words of advice: the bigger the pot the better- use at least a 5 gallon pot for full sized bell peppers, though chili peppers can use a smaller pot. Plastic pots, with drain holes, drain well but do not dry out as fast as terra cotta. Use regular potting soil, adding organic fertilizer according to package directions, plus one tablespoon Epsom salts for the magnesium. Above are photos of my loaded red bell pepper and my orange pimento plants. So, if you have trouble with in-ground peppers, try potting them up!
Happy gardening!

Overwintered potted plants

I overwinter a lot of plants- some in my attic under supplemental florescent light, some on a kitchen windowsill and others in my garage. These garage plants are a little sturdier than the ones I over winter inside, plus they usually cannot stand the dry conditions inside a house (I once read that to provide indoor air moisture equal to outdoors, you would have to mist inside plants a hundred times per day). Another reason to overwinter in my garage is when the plant is dormant and needs just a little extra cold-weather TLC. Potted plants are especially vulnerable to the freeze-thaw cycle (which also cracks ceramic or clay pots). The roots of potted plants are essentially above the ground and can freeze badly and dry out easily if left outdoors all winter. Going into an unheated garage or shed can provide enough added protection to allow the plant to survive.

If you overwinter pots this way you may encounter the same problem I have- the potted plant seems to break dormancy early in these sheltered conditions. This is a problem- these plants cannot adequately photosynthesize in the dark conditions in my garage nor will they come into proper bloom. I don't want to set them outside without protection: after all, they were protected from the harsh, outdoor conditions all winter. So, this is what I do- I mass the plants in pots near the house and cover them with pine straw (I tuck pine straw under, between, behind and over the top of the pots-see photo above). The house provides a wind break and some heat pools. This protects the plants and pots, allows rain and some warmth from the sun, and it conditions the plants to the outdoors. If the plant is truly early, this may slow its growth down just enough. Some people put potted plants in a cold frame- my cold frame is too small for the 15-20 large pots I have (even if it hadn't gotten loose from its rope and stake mooring in a windstorm and flew up 10 feet and broke apart!) You can also trench your potted plants- that is, put them in a trench and cover with straw, hay or leaves for a month or so, until it warms up- perch them on brick for drainage. In a month, your plants will be truly ready for spring...as will we all!

Happy gardening!